That's Not Safe Canning

I have a canning guide from a cooperative extension office that has a great warning to the would-be preserver to avoid the advice of celebrity cooks and old publications and follow tested safety methods. I thought of that warning as I read the two installments of recipes in the Guardian from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's River Cottage.

Look, I understand the desire to continue doing things as one always has, particularly if one has suffered no ill effects. Still, the method of preserving being suggested in the Guardian is no longer reliably safe. The bacteria have changed, and the soils they grow in have become more contaminated. To do open-kettle canning where food is not processed in either a water bath for high acid foods, or a pressure canner for low acid, is inviting trouble. While the recipes sound fine, I would not make them without putting them through a water bath canner-10 minutes for jams and jellies, 15 for chutneys and 20 for pickles. If using quarts, add five minutes. You should also take altitude into consideration and adjust accordingly.

My other piece of advice not covered in the recipes and methods is eliminating air bubbles. Bacteria can live in those air bubbles and it is important to release them before capping the jar. It is not a good idea to simply pour and cap. Take a small, plastic or rubber spatula and press against the food and glass to release any air bubbles-do this three or four times around the jar. It is more of an issue with fruit or vegetables suspended in liquid (like tomatoes) but you should still do it with jams and chutneys. I cannot imagine why this rather important point was omitted in the article.

Again, I hate to sound like a broken record, but food safety is important and publishing articles (and books) that treat it as optional seems a risk not worth taking. We're not talking about a mild case of the shits-these bacteria strains kill people-quickly and horribly. Be safe and follow current health guidelines. Botulism is a lousy way to go.